RELEVANCE TO CURRENT FASHION
It's just a fact that fashion trends from the past are constantly being recycled and reintroduced on the runways. The current trends of fashion today greatly have an impact on the value and pricing of vintage clothing. Take for example the rise of Bohemian (boho) trends just a few years ago. Suddenly, clothing stores were selling little suede boots and peasant tops and flowery, patterned dresses. People not only want a look that is up to date, but they also want their clothing to be unique and one of a kind. That's where vintage comes in. An original 1970's Bohemian dress may have sold years ago for $30 while the same dress today could easily be sold for more than $100. An even better example of this is the uprising of 1980's New Wave fashion trends. You could have asked me a few years ago and I would have said there is no way the 80's will ever make a come back. Today, I'm walking around in leggings and tunics and have a collection of 200 vintage 80's pumps. Let's face it, the 80's was a rather tacky era, but with top designers managing to renovate and perfect those spandex dresses and hot pink heels - the modern fashion industry has never been more fun. So while six years ago anything in the 80's would have been past up, and only classic styles from designers could be sold, today there is high demand for original 80's apparel. Prom dresses, high heels, spandex pants, skinny jeans, leg warmers - just to name a few - have become some of the most heavily sought after items in the younger market. Even the sweater dress that we once swore off made a come back! Consider this, those 1980's prom dresses that might have sold (to a small market) for only $40 a few years ago are now holding a higher value of $100 or more depending on the cut, style, and fabric. When selling something vintage just remember, an ugly dress will always be an ugly dress - no matter what the current fads are. Just because the demand for vintage 1980's clothing is in such high demand right now doesn't mean that anything from that era will hold a value. Unfortunately, some dresses should just stay on a thrift store rack forever. The higher priced garments are going to be those which influenced todays runways. Therefore, if you can imagine your particular garment being sold at a clothing store right now, it is in fact relevant to todays fashion industry. Just keep in mind that things change every season, and while my examples of Bohemian and New Wave trends have stuck around for a bit, if these trends slowly fade then so will their value. If it's hot it's hot, and if it's not, well, it's not.
Internationally known designers such as Chanel and Christian Dior are always popular in both modern and vintage apparel markets. Obviously designer vintage pieces are going to sell for more - that's just a given. What plays an important role in the value is the garment's representation of the designer. Consider what a particular designer is known best for and what made them fashion icons. Their luxurious fabrics and cuts or their ability to create classic pieces? How did this designer revolutionize the fashion industry? It's always more than just the name on the label. A designer dress that is hideous and undesirable in today's fashion industry isn't going to hold it's value. Would you really pay $400 for a label? Think to yourself, what made this designer so desirable? Dior's New Look is always going to have value, as it is a proper representation of classic Christian Dior. Current popular apparel brands with a history hold value in the vintage world as well. Take the vintage lingerie industry for example and consider brands such as Olga. As mentioned in the Olga guide, Olga Company is best known for their gorgeous, full sweep nightgowns, and is still popular in today's modern market. Those nightgowns have classic cuts and hold their value because they represent Olga's desire to make women feel beautiful. As far as designers are considered, what holds the highest value at auction houses are actually lesser known vintage couture pieces because of their rarity. As mentioned in the Antique Trader Vintage Clothing Price Guide, obscure couture designers such as Sant' Angelo or Norrell are considered to be the best vintage finds.
Each era holds a different place in the revolution of fashion. When buying and selling vintage, consider what a particular decade brought to the fashion industry and how it relates to history itself. A vintage flapper dress from the fabulous "Roaring 20's" for example, is going to hold a high market value because it not only represents a revolutionary change in women's trends, but is also an iconic image of that decade entirely. In the 1950's, we have those stunning, bombshell hourglass dresses and terrific tulle party gowns and will forever be sought after for their glamorous representation of the decade. Beautiful taffeta and tulle cocktail dresses from the 1950's can sell at an auction house for prices as high as $750. When you see movies like Grease that take place in the 50's, you see poodle skirts and leather jackets. While a poodle skirt isn't necessarily an item that would be worn today, their place in history and rarity gives them a higher market value than a more casual 50's skirt. Lacy chiffon babydoll dresses and paper dresses from the 1960's will obviously be more valuable than a basic casual dress. One example is the Andy Warhol Cambell's Tomato Soup Can "Souper Dress." This is a paper dress, and because this dress is both rare and holds iconic value, has sold for prices as high as $1,800 at auction. Rock T-shirts from the 60's, 70's, and 80's are also increasing in value. Especially now, with these vintage tees being reproduced today. The band does play a huge role (i.e. The Beatles, Led Zeppelin, etc.), and the more fans there are the more collectible that piece will be. Just a mention of other vintage finds, tea dresses and silk gowns from the early 20th century can hold high values of $1,200 or more. It is very important when selling vintage clothing to know what styles were up and coming in every era as to fully understand a garment's place in history. When I say quality, I am referring to the craftsmanship and materials of the piece itself. Many people believe that if a garment is handmade it is automatically more valuable. This, however, isn't always the case. When purchasing vintage it is important to look closely at the clothing's details. It is very easy to tell if a piece is well made and durable. When evaluating a garment inspect the stitching. See if it is securely stitched and even. Are seams coming undone? Has it been altered from it's original condition? These are all important factors when pricing vintage. Consider materials as well. Finer silks and other similar textiles will have a higher value than polyester for example, and garments heavily layered with tulle or chiffon will also be sought after. The amount in material used is important too. Vintage evening gowns with full sweeps and bustles were made with lots of fabric, which causes the value to rise. A truly valuable piece of vintage - all trends aside - will make the owner feel richer and more luxurious. I use the example of formal gowns and dresses in particular because they will always hold a higher value than a vintage casual dress. CONDITION Naturally the price and value of anything in this world depends greatly on it's condition. If the garment's material is already deteriorating, it will only continue to do so over time. Fabrics with sunlight bleaching, discoloration, or that have been eaten away by microbes cannot be repaired. Stains can be removed if they are only on the surface, but if a stain runs through the fabric completely, nothing can be done. Any of these types of damages will greatly devalue clothing. It is important to also take note of any regular wear and tear. If there is a separation at a seam without tearing, most buyers will be more than willing to handle a minor repair. Larger holes and tears that can only be fixed through obvious stitching will be less desirable to buyers which in turn dramatically decreases the value. Some flaws are to be expected in vintage, however, it is the extent of these flaws which determines the pricing. Rarity is the bind that ties everything together and is above all most important. Obviously, early 20th century garments that are still in good condition are going to be rare. Various couture designer pieces, luxury garments, unique patterns and designs, iconic pieces, etc. will always be collectible due to their rarity. I would also like to mention that vintage lingerie, hosiery, and bathing suits are very collectible. Because lingerie and bathing suits are often thrown away, they are becoming increasingly rare in the vintage industry.
